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I’m not holding a kid and this is something that I’m mad about.’” It may not seem like much – a creative disagreement that was resolved to the satisfaction of all parties involved – but for an inveterate people-pleaser it was progress. No Tarantino standing in the wings, mouthing “OK” at her. Qualley understood the role on an elemental level and was ultimately vindicated. Her on-screen relationship with daughter Maddy, played by five-year-old Rylea Nevaeh Whittet, is the emotional heart of the show.
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What it felt like was an instinctive, even gut reaction to the potential sucker punch of taking up one of the most formidable mantles in modern fashion. “I played around with what I thought was Alaïa,” he told me, just before that first catwalk collection was presented. “The base was in the Eighties, that’s when he began to build. The sense, the essence.” It was as direct as the curvy corset-belts, body-defining knits and leopard prints, and as subtle as a meandering fagoted seam defining the erogenous zones of the bust and waist on brief dresses and bodysuits. Like Coca-Cola, Disney’s Mickey Mouse is among the most instantly recognisable symbols of American culture. In the Spring/Summer 2021 collection, the clothes were teamed with snub-toed platform-soled shoes, not dissimilar to those he wears, and he appears as prints, repeated and overlapping to the point of abstraction, scribbled across surfaces like graffiti.
Not transforming everything that I took for this collection as a reference from Cristóbal into something completely new,” he says. “For a designer like me, that’s difficult.” Following Gvasalia’s rumpled Astroturf-green opera coat and the fucked-up Infanta evening gown, Cristóbal Balenciaga’s wedding dress swept through the salons of his house. Gvasalia’s father repaired cars; his mother was a housewife. While Balenciaga was apolitical, Gvasalia wasn’t permitted that luxury. He was born in Georgia, though his family was displaced via a process of ethnic cleansing by Abkhaz separatists that ultimately expelled a quarter of a million Georgians from their homes between 1992 and 1993.
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It’s an unconventionally direct homage – one of those well-avoided milestones. We were like, ‘OK, let’s do it like this, or let’s do it like this. Let’s change the darts here.’ Trying to be more clever,” he rolls his eyes. “Or, I don’t know, like more construction conscious than Cristóbal. There was no way it could be better.” They did change the fabric – the silk-wool mix has a worn feel, as if it had been drawn from the archives.
“Marilyn’s voice, her expressions, were a consequence of the speech classes she took herself, of her insecurities, of her not having any boundaries and letting people in, of playing this part of having to be rescued all the time. Build your collection of covetable and iconic vintage garments by shopping on 1stDibs. No matter where you roam, our diverse apparel and accessories will keep you covered in the hottest styles and comfiest black hoodie imaginable.
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“And we did change the hat, that particular hat, into a veil.” The headpiece, originally, was known as the “coal scuttle”, a helmet of fabric that resembles something out of Star Wars and has been ripped off endlessly since. “There is something quite absurd about the wedding dress in today’s context,” Gvasalia says. Which is strange, given that bridal gowns are often seen as contemporary couture’s raison d’être – if you’re going to spend six figures on a dress, it’s probably for holy matrimony.
Gvasalia wears the high-heeled men’s shoes he had debuted barely nine hours earlier. There’s a performance by Bryan Ferry – “I thought he felt quite couture,” Gvasalia said, laughing. The next day, he travelled back to Zurich with his husband. Sometimes with really big movies, it can feel like you’re just a puppet and part of this big machine.
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I was put into a different category and there’s definitely a protective shield that I feel is related to being my mother’s daughter,” she says. He wants to show me the space where the show will be held, an enormous double-height atrium with a vaulted glass roof. “We are showing in Azzedine’s heart,” he says. “I always call it the cathedral.” The Alaïa complex is so big, it straddles an entire city block, and technically the entrance to this space is at 18 rue de la Verrerie, through a pretty courtyard with a giant hammered-bronze female breast incongruously plonked in the centre.
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